Misty view of green mountains with a segment of the Great Wall of China winding along the ridges.

Backpacking China 3 Weeks, 4 Cities and Countless Memories

This was my second time in China, the first was years ago on a school trip, but this time I had my boyfriend along for the adventure. Three weeks, backpacks on, four cities: Beijing, Xi’an, Chengdu, and Guangzhou.

We decided to skip the classic Shanghai–Hangzhou route and explore a different side of China instead. Since I already knew what to expect, culture shock wasn’t really part of the deal for me… my boyfriend, however, was about to live it in full HD.

Beijing: Heat, History & Duck

We kicked off our trip in Beijing, and yes, it was July: 30+ degrees, sun blazing, every day. Not exactly ideal backpacking weather when you’ve spent the past few years in Ireland, but we powered through (and sweated through every piece of clothing).

Our first surprise came rather unexpectedly: our hotel room had no window. Oops. We also totally forgot about the Great Firewall situation so, no Google, no socials, no emails. Three weeks offline… 

The upside? We found an English-subtitled TV channel and got weirdly into an old Monkey King series.

Our first day was a full classic: Tian’anmen Square, the Forbidden City, and our first Peking duck dinner. No regrets.

For the Great Wall, we joined a group tour to Mutianyu, convenient and well worth it, despite the mandatory souvenir shop stops. The climb was steep, the sun brutal, but the views? Unreal. And going down on the toboggan slide was the cherry on top. 

We also joined another tour for the Summer Palace, though public transport would have done the trick just fine. A few shop detours, a guided walk, and some free time to explore the gardens.

Between temples and tours, we checked out the city’s modern side, shopping districts, sleek malls, and even a French crepe stop (because balance).

Beijing impressed me more than expected: efficient, relaxed, and full of quiet charm beneath the grandeur.

The Tiananmen Gate in Beijing with red flags, a portrait of Mao Zedong, and a crowd of people in front.
Traditional Chinese-style temple with tiered, curved roofs, surrounded by stone stairs, in cloudy weather, with tourists walking and taking photos.
People riding on a roller coaster or similar ride along a track set amid lush green trees on a hillside.
The Great Wall of China climbing over green mountains with tourists walking along its path.
People visiting the Forbidden City in Beijing, China, with traditional Chinese architecture and large open courtyard visible.

Xi’an – Warriors, Walls & Unexpected Encounters

From Beijing, we flew to Xi’an, a totally different atmosphere — smaller, more traditional, and easy to navigate.

We wandered around the Bell and Drum Towers, Small Goose Pagoda, and Hui Min Street, a night market full of sizzling mystery meats (one even sprinkled with rainbow sparkles. Yes, like cupcake decorations).

The highlight of the night was the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda fountain show. As we waited, we overheard a group speaking what sounded like… Irish. Turns out they were Irish,  teachers travelling China during the summer break, chatting in Irish so no one could understand them. Except, of course, my boyfriend. 

The next day, we joined a tour to see the Terra Cotta Warriors. I’ll be honest, it was crowded, hot, and slightly overrated, but still fascinating to witness in person. The nearby museum was a bonus, with some beautifully preserved, colour-painted statues.

At night, we walked the Xi’an city wall, which I highly recommend, the views and night breeze make it worth it.

Then came our overnight train to Chengdu, which was… an experience. Let’s just say “basic comfort,” “strangers,” and “train lullaby” aren’t my new favourite combo. I think I managed one hour of sleep before we arrived.

Close-up of a white bowl filled with sweet and sour chicken garnished with colorful sprinkles on a wooden table in a restaurant setting.
Person posing behind a large warrior statue outside, with trees and bricks in the background.
Terracotta Army archaeological site with rows of life-sized clay soldiers and horses under a large modern roof.
Scenic view of a river with cityscape in the background, seen through a train window, with some greenery and a pathway in the foreground.

Chengdu – Pandas & Chill 

We came to Chengdu for one reason: pandas. And they didn’t disappoint. Seeing them in real life, especially the babies,  was pure joy.

Beyond that, I’ll admit we didn’t do much. We strolled the Wide and Narrow Alleys, sampled street food, and generally took it easy after the sleepless train night. Chengdu has this calm, laid-back vibe that makes slowing down feel natural.

A panda bear sitting in a tree in a lush green forest, with a wooden staircase and dense foliage surrounding it.

Guangzhou – The Final Stretch

Our final stop was Guangzhou, the city I first visited when I came to China years ago. I’d been looking forward to returning but travel plans have a sense of humour. My boyfriend got really sick and spent four days in bed.

So I did some light solo exploring nearby: Yuexiu Park became my little escape, full of locals dancing, doing tai chi, or just sitting in the shade.

Once he recovered, we visited Shamian Island, with its peaceful, colonial-style architecture and leafy streets, a lovely break from the city buzz. Then Beijing Road for a taste of modern Guangzhou life, before wrapping it all up with a night cruise on the Pearl River. Lights reflecting on the water, warm breeze, skyline glowing, a perfect ending.

Nighttime view of a tall tower illuminated with rainbow-colored lights.
Night scene of a colorful illuminated fountain display with water jets shooting upward, reflected in a body of water, with buildings and lights in the background.

Highlights: 

Beijing: 

  • Great wall - mutianyu group tour 

  • Summer palace 

  • Forbidden city 

Xi’an:

  • wild goose pagoda + fountain show 

  • Terra cotta warriors 

Chengdu: 

  • Panda 

Guangzhou: 

  • Shamian island 

  • River pearl cruise

A dark brown glass beer bottle with a panda face label featuring black eyes and nose, labeled "Panda Eyes Red Honey Ale," on a wooden table with condensation. In the background, there are blurred chairs and a couch in a cozy bar or cafe setting.

Three weeks, four cities, one unforgettable trip.
There were challenges (heat, exhaustion, food surprises, unexpected illnesses), but also so many beautiful moments: the Great Wall under the blazing sun, the panda cubs, a random Irish encounter in Xi’an, quiet gardens in Beijing, and that night cruise in Guangzhou.

I didn’t know it at the time, but this trip was the start of something, the beginning of a longer journey, and my love for travelling off the obvious route.

Would I go back? Absolutely. Just… maybe not in July.

A large body of water with multiple boats floating on it, in front of a hilly landscape with traditional Chinese buildings on top, and a tree branch hanging down from the top right corner.